Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
