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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.